$175.0 Buy It Now or Best Offer
free,30-Day Returns

Seller Store wangyanfang2016-1
(1275) 100.0%,

Location: Longquan, Zhejiang
Ships to: US,
Item: 203897536219

Return shipping will be paid by:Seller
All returns accepted:Returns Accepted
Item must be returned within:14 Days
Refund will be given as:Money Back
Return policy details:
Type:Tachi
Edge:Single,Curved
Handle Material:Wood
Tang:Full
Blade Material:Carbon Steel
Dexterity:Ambidextrous
Authenticity:Original
Theme:Samurai
Color:Red
Style:Japanese
Wang-katana2011:Wang-katana2011
Original/Reproduction:Original
Handedness:Double-Handed

Real Tachi T10 Steel Katana Battle Ready Sharp Japanese Samurai Sword RosewoodMost of the tachi sold on eBay have a standard radian of 2.2cm as the standard katana. But this is the traditional real tachi sword. Its radian is about 7.8cm. We have made them for a year, spent a lot of time, and the production cost is very high, but it is worth it. It is absolutely unique and only available in our stores. Product Parameter:Number: 404Swordsmith: 懰旭Material: T10 High carbon steelOverall: 103cm/40.6″Blade: 70cm/27.5”Handle: 26 cm/10.24”Widdth: 3.2 cm/1.26”Thickness: 0.7cm/0.28”Bo-hi(blood groove): YesFittings: Brass Habaki&Seppa+Alloy fittingsRayskin: Real RayskinSaya: Rosewood,more comfortable to use,beautiful natural wood grain,each tree may be slightly different in colorCraft: Traditional handforging, quenching,heat treatment,hand-polishing,etc. It’s a functional sword.After tests,you can use it to cut bamboo,paper,branch etc.* If you are not sure whether the sword is really as good as our pictures, you can ask us to take some photos of your order. We will arrange the delivery after your confirmation. It’s a free service. T10 carbon steel: The best quality of high carbon steel is T10, the carbon content was 1.03%, and the element contains a small amount of chromium, molybdenum, vanadium, after heat treatment can reach HRC 58-60 hardness. Toughness is very good, but it is not resistant to rust. It is applied to traditional european-style hunting knife, large cutting knife and military dao.SWORD MOUNTINGS FOR CHOOSINGENGRAVING SERVICEHOW TO DISASSEMBLE A JP SWORDSWORD MAKING PROCESSESDELIVERY DETAILS & PAYMENTSWORD MOUNTINGS FOR CHOOSING If you don’t like the color or the style of the mountings, you can choose different ones from the options below. Just tell us your choice before purchase. TSUBAThe tsuba (鍔, or 鐔) is usually a round (or occasionally squareish) guard at the end of the grip of Japanese swords. They contribute to the balance of the sword and to the protection of the hand. The tsuba was mostly meant to be used to prevent the hand from sliding onto the blade during thrusts as opposed to protecting from an opponent’s blade. TSUBATSUKA-ITO & SAGEO Tsuka-ito is the wrapping of the tsuka and sageo (下緒 or 下げ緒) is a hanging cord that is passed through the hole in the kurigata (栗形) of a Japanese sword’s saya. SAMEGAWA Samegawa(鮫皮)is the ray or shark skin wrapping of the tsuka (handle/hilt). SAYA The saya is a wooden scabbard for the blade; traditionally done in lacquered wood.ENGRAVING SERVICEIt is freefor engraving English words,Chinese characters and Japanese Kanji. You need pay additional $20 for engraving patterns (dragon, lion, etc.) or other logos.HOW TO DISASSEMBLE A JP SWORDSWORD MAKING PROCESSESFormingSwords can be shaped by a variety of metalworking techniques.The primary techniques are forging and stock removal. Forging uses heat to bring the material to a malleable state. The material is then hammered to shape, typically using hammer and anvil together with specialized set and fuller tools depending on the particular technique. Stock removal shapes the sword from prepared stock that is larger in all dimensions than the finished sword by filing, grinding and cutting.QuenchingAfter the blade has been shaped, the sword would be quenched. We quench our swords in either water or oil. Water quenching produces a tougher edge which can also be hardened further more using clay. Blades quenched in oil are still considerably hardened and do have superior flexibility compared to a water quenched blade. The more rapidly a blade cools down, the harder it becomes. Thus, when a hot blade enters the water, the water also gains heat and the blade will cool more gradually. Therefore, the first part of the blade that enters the water will be the hardest. Therefore, the technique of quenching was also very important. If a blade has any flaws from forging (air bubbles, ash), it will break immediately during the quenching process.Tempering After quenching, the sword will be quite tough and brittle, with little flexibility. To overcome this, the blade would undergo a tempering process. The blade would be reheated to a certain temperature degree then allowed to cool naturally. The blade would be slightly less tough afterward but have a greater degree of flexibility – the art would be to perfectly balance the blade for toughness, sharpness and flexibility. Modifying ShapeFinishing Finishing encompasses polishing, decorating, and crafting and assembling the hilt, guard and sheath. The swordsmith would be most concerned with the state of the blade itself and possibly decorating the blade and preparing the guards and pommel. Other artisans would likely be involved in the work of fashioning the hilt, sheath and other furniture; and in any fine decoration. PolishingWhen the rough blade is completed, the swordsmith turns the blade over to a polisher, whose job it is to refine the shape of a blade and improve its aesthetic value. The polishing process almost always takes longer than even crafting, and a good polish can greatly improve the beauty of a blade, while a bad one can ruin the best of blades. Early polishers used three types of stone, whereas a modern polisher generally uses seven.On high quality blades, only the back of the blade and the adjacent sides, are polished to a mirror-like surface. To bring out the grain and hamon, the center portion of the blade, and the edge are usually given a matte finish. Microscopic scratches in the surface vary, depending on hardness. Smaller but more numerous scratches in the harder areas reflect light differently from the deeper, longer scratches in the softer areas. The harder metal appears more matte than the softer, and the manner in which it scatters light is less affected by the direction of the lighting.After the blade is finished it is passed on to a mountings-maker for fashioning the hilt, sheath and other mountings.DELIVERY DETAILS & PAYMENTInternational Buyers – Please Note:a) Import duties, taxes and charges are not included in the item price or shipping charges. These charges are the buyer’s responsibility.b) Please check with your country’s customs office to determine what these additional costs will be prior to bidding/buying. The shipment will be prepared and get shipment as soon as possible when you place the order. The shipping time is different according to the different area. US: 10-15 daysAU: 8-12 daysCa: 10-15 daysOthers: 25-60 daysIt is international shipment, so there are many factors influenced, please let us know if there is any question, we will try our best to make things right for you.

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